A hoya blooming to completion for me was a first! I’m not typically one for blooming plants, but this one promised dark purple flowers, and so I was intrigued. The plant was acquired with two sets of leaves back in 2023, and has since put out another 3 sets of leaves in the intervening time. That’s something like 150% growth! More importantly, during early May, a peduncle started forming. This signifies the potential the plant is starting to push out a cluster of flowers if it doesn’t “blast” off, like my linearis did last year. I was pretty excited to see these “black” blooms, but wasn’t holding my breath. Over the span of another two weeks, the blooms slowly got larger and showed their “waxiness”. I missed the moment where they unfurled, but I came back one day to full on flowers (Figs. 1 and 2).
Apr 21, 2024Apr 27, 2024Apr 28, 2024Figure 1. Left to Right, progression of hoya blooms over a week.
Figure 2. The flowers all open! Picture taken Apr 30, 2024. Also check out that cute olive jar it lives in. Surprisingly hasn’t shown any signs of needing a larger vessel yet! Yellowing is almost certainly from getting too much light.
Flower and Plant Review
The bloomed didn’t smell particularly strong, but there was a faint sweetness if I got very close. Admittedly, I didn’t think through the fact that this plant lived on a shelf, and the blooms were well below my face height while sitting. So to see the blooms, I had to either jam my face in at an awkward angle, or pull out the plant to admire. Anyhow, the plant bloomed, I was happy, but not entirely convinced it was worth the wait. The leaves aren’t particularly charming, and unless it’ll be regularly in bloom, it doesn’t do much as a décor piece. It also made a mess after the pollination, leaving behind nectar blobs that had dripped off onto the shelf. A minor amount of drippiness can be seen in Figure 4.
Figure 3. Hoya blooms early in the morning on May 2, 2024 at 5:09 AM. The nectar can be seem in where the fuzzy petals are slightly darker.
The Response
With that in mind (the plant being rather boring), I tried to go to bed. At some absurd hour, I decided that it might be worthwhile pulling out the information I had on trying to pollinate the plant. I vaguely recalled that I had downloaded a few articles on the procedure, but being in bed, it was easiest to pull out my phone. Here are the two sites I landed on:
I also found a less than useful, but often looked at YouTube resource for pollination and a Reddit thread wishing the poster luck: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoyas/comments/ghng1f/pollinating_hoya_blooms/. The main issue I found was somewhat low resolution images and unclear arrow directions in the diagrams. Even though everything was labelled, looking up the respective parts of the hoya flower across different flower types was quite difficult. Here are the steps with the best interpretation I could make.
Identify the respective components. Hoya blooms tend to be in clusters, though some form single blooms. The flowers are typically 5 sided, forming star patterns. To pollinate, the parts of interest are near the center of the flower, where activity takes place
Pick your weapon
Pull out the pollina by sliding along the surface slit, gently pushing down, hooking the dark joint (corpusculum), and lifting it out. The pollina consists of two pollinium attached by a corpusculum
Identify your target and hold your breath
Slide the pollina into and through the “stigmatic lock”, also known as the ”staminal slit”. The goal is to get the pollen in the pollina to contact the inner walls of the lock
Repeat
I reluctantly rolled out of bed after realizing I wouldn’t be able to sleep unless I tried the pollination out myself. From what I could tell, the goal is simply to readjust the location of the pollen source further up.I took some photos for reference (Fig. 4), then decided to also take the internet’s advice on repeated trials. I balanced juggling my phone, trying to read instructions, while trying to perform the procedure on a single cut flower (Fig. 5). If I could pollinate while it was stably fixed in place, then maybe I’d have an alright shot trying to balance a wobbling plant too.
Figure 4. May 5, 2024. Detailing on the flowers, they are quite dark! Also a fun back shot for more detail. The leaves have cute pink speckling.Figure 5. The test bloom. Isolated and slotted into the base of a terracota pot since that’s what I had on hand.
Procedure
There are “optimal” times for pollination, and I’m not sure the crack of dawn was it. I found it fairly difficult to get the insertion correct, despite this flower having a very simple and accessible structure. This could have been because it was 4:30 am and I was all bleary eyed, or I didn’t have the right tools. The internet recommends a cat whisker (I left mine behind), but I only had a horse hair on hand. I decided to stick with the fresh X-ACTO knife blade gave me the best balance between control and width after the horse hair proved itself too difficult to be used. (Figs. 6 and 7) Note, if you use a utility knife like I did, you’ll find that the flower also bleeds sap!
Horse hairX-ACTO bladeFigure 6. The weapons of choicePicking out the pollinaPost insertionFigure 7. Some snippets of the action.
The Result
In the end, I managed to repeat the procedure at least 3 times across most of the remaining flowers that were still attached to the main stem. One of the biggest issues I had were the pollinarium not wanting to remain in the lock. They would poke out a bit and I was reasonably confident that the probability for fertilization would be just about zero. Trying to insert things in also caused a lot of damage to both the receptive and insertion components of the flower. Nontheless, I was hopeful.
I waited a few more weeks but the flowers all dropped and dried out. A fun experiment, and one I’ll likely try out again if I get the chance. Preferably at a different hour.
Figure 8. Dried up flowers a month later. You can see how plump the flowers used to be! This may be worth dissecting later to see whether or not the pollina vanished.
I’ve also made my own reference diagram I can look at and contribute!
Figure 9. Abstracted diagram for hoya pollination procedure. Find one pollina, remove via corpusculum, insert corpusculum in first through the stigmatic lock, push until pollium contact the inside of the lock. (It is entire possible I got the insertion direction wrong, but I can’t imagine it matters so long as contact is made!)
Next Steps
I might try to invert the shape of the pollina next time in case the pollen is on the inside of the wings rather than the outside edge. For this specific plant, it may also be worth waiting an extra day or two to pollinate, since the flowers lasted for quite a while, and I feel like they would naturally be more receptive when the nectar is more actively being produced.
Regrettably, I can’t validate the procedure I detailed because I’m writing this a month later, long after the flowers have dried and dropped off with absolutely no seed pod production. Maybe the sudden increased production in nectar caused the pollina to slide out? Maybe I should harvest some insect legs to try pollinating? Or perhaps self-seeding rates are simply very low to begin with?
Figure 10. A hopeful Hoya linearis bloom on the way? Check back in a month or so!
Things can’t be that bad. I counted 17 baby shrimp!
– Elisa, February 2024
Prelude
Three-ish months ago (Nov 17, 2023), I set out on an adventure to build a living wall. I had just moved home, and I was thinking of ways to decorate my room and now office space. As it turns out, picture frames for 3 foot long posters are not as readily available at a budget price, even when shopping second hand. I opted for a project I had been wanting to try for a while, putting up my plants on wall. The rational was multi-fold.
Firstly, it has been a life long dream to have a living wall in my own space, with my preferred selection of plants. No fake moss. Secondly, it would take up space on the wall, and should be much cheaper than frames. Thirdly, if I could rig up an automated watering system, this would alleviate the need for leaving my plants unwatered and uncared for during long periods away, or asking someone else to take care of them. All of this sounded entirely sensible to me.
Act I: Making a Watering Wall
So, I sized it out. I knew I needed a waterproof support frame, and some sort of water permeable fabric. I wanted to add a watering system, so I decided to build the frame from PVC pipes, drill holes at the top, and pump water through one end. Dimensions were constrained by the largest garden/landscaping fabric I could find at a reasonable price, 3 feet across. I had been hoping for 5 by 5 feet, as I really wanted it to fill up the space in Zoom calls, but we do what we can. I estimated the maximum head a pump would need to be able to push up to the top of the frame, and multiplied it out by the internal PVC dimensions (I went back and forth inner dimensions, and decided that ½ in pipe would be sturdy enough if I built a central cross feature in the frame). Some quick googling later, I figured I would need a pump that could allegedly do at least 10 ft of head from the main ½ in outlet. I came up with a few configurations, and decided it would make sense to pipe the water out bottom side of the frame.
My shopping list looked something like this:
2 10’ lengths of ½ in PVC pipe
5 T-joins
1 cross join
3 elbows
3’ width fabric, roll of
40 gph pump
Flexible hosing (to link the pump and frame) and connectors
PVC cement
Something to store water in, at least 3’ + a few inches wide to accommodate for the pump connector
I already had a saw and drill with various bits. I purchased the pump a day in advance to look at the outlets and what was needed to join the pump to the frame. Now it was off to Home Hardware. They didn’t have enough T-joins for ½ in pipe. Next step, Home Depot. The folks there were kind enough to ask what kind of project it was. As it turns out, white PVC pipes are necessary when dealing with potable water. For my use case though? Electrical conduit would do just fine at half the cost. Great! They were out of conduit in the dimensions I wanted, so I picked up the PVC connectors before heading on over to the RONA down the street. I finally found the conduit, ½ ‘’ ID and 3’ in length. I purchased 2 10’ lengths and wedged them cautiously into the car. At some point, a trip had been made to Canadian Tire to pick up a giant Rubbermaid tote. It was a ROUGHNECK, and claimed it wouldn’t crack in winter conditions. I had been hoping for a flat bottomed box or planter, but an internet search had revealed that most nicely formed boxes were capped at around 48 inches or less. No matter. I could figure it out later.
One night of staying up working on impromptu projects wasn’t enough (I had built a Corsi-Rosenthal box the previous night and spent far too long perfecting the box fan coverage around the corners). I sawed the pipes to length, using a 30 cm ruler as a guide, sanded the edges down with a rasp, and finished the edges with a coarse grit sand paper. I gingerly put all the pieces together with the connectors and flexed the frame. I felt like it would hold. I cemented the pieces together and let it cure outside. At this point, night had fallen and I took a break for dinner.
The cement had cured by the time I was done, so it was time to do a water test. Holes were drilled and the connectors added. At this point, I realized that the connection point to the frame sat belowthe frame, and not to the side like I had planned. But it was already cemented in. I figured it wasn’t a big deal. We filled a bucket with water, dropped the pump in, and turned it on. It worked! The disbelief on our faces belayed the lack of faith in my online water head calculation. But the drill spacing and flow rate worked perfectly to lift the water to the top of the frame, and distribute the outflow across the drill holes. Naturally, I had to move on to the next step, seeing if the flow would be enough to saturate the garden fabric.
I lugged the frame and the roll of fabric outside and started wrapping it tightly on the frame. I was doing this unsupervised and alone at this hour, and naturally ended up making some impromptu decisions in the dimming light. I decided to make the fabric wall by wrapping around the frame three times. After folding the frame in, I punched some holes through the fabric with the tip of a pair of scissors right by the top of the frame, and zip-tied it in with some spare zip-ties I had found in my bag after some field work. I tested again with water. Slowly but surely, the compressed fabric against the outlet holes of the frame began to take up water. Holding the frame perpendicular to the ground, water dripped through the fabric instead of the air space between the front and back.
I chucked the whole thing into the Rubbermaid tote (Fig. 1). Job well done, I thought.
Figure 1. Garden fabric wound around a PVC frame, then chucked into a tote.
Intermission: Watering Wall to Living Wall
I lack some clarity on the timeline for the next few parts, but I eventually stitched a few pockets made of cut rectangles from the fabric using fishing line to the “front” side of the wall. I stuffed the pockets with a lower layer of LECA, placed some plant cuttings in, and secured them with more LECA. The tote had been hauled up to my room and propped up against a wall. It had been filled with well over 20 gallons of water, enough to avoid running the pump dry. Over the next few days, I would plug in the pump to “water” my plants (Fig. 2). One issue I knew I would be running into was the stability of the frame. I wanted it to be vertical. With it leaned up against a real wall, there were certain to be mold issues and water damage.
Figure 2. Putting plants on the “wall”. Darkened areas are saturated with water. Notice that the tote’s lid is behind the wall, this was preventing the wet plant wall from contacting the drywall.
I tried a few different configurations, including filling the tote with 1 gal bottles to brace it (and limit the total water volume in case the tote cracked), and propping it up on an overturned planted when the awkward angle from the pump connector started really bothering me (Fig. 3). I was hoping that eventually I could get some 3D printed supports in.
Figure 3. With some added lighting, hanging plants, and sneaking gallon bottles propping up the wall.
Act II: Water Quality and the Clean-up Crew
A week later, I discovered that the water in the tote was… unpleasant. It was time to cycle it out. I ran into my first issue here. The frame was now waterlogged and quite unwieldy. Hauling a flexible plastic tote filled with ~80 L of water was also not quite practical (Fig. 4). This resulted in a very silly, slow water drain by repeatedly filling gallon bottles and dumping them out into the bathroom while the frame had been lugged into a bathtub while this was happening. This would not do.
Figure 4. A messy room with plants, and a rubbermaid tote full of water and gallon bottles. Those are rock samples in the ziploc bags…
I mulled it over for the next week or so. The second time I had to do the tote lugging and gallon bottle juggling, I decided that I was over it. Either I could disassemble the wall for a later date, or get something to clean up my water. The plants were doing great though, and I didn’t want to disturb them. So I thought, shrimp! Shrimp would be my solution.
Some quick googling later, I found that Amano shrimp were great algae eaters and detritivores, quickly breaking down plant matter. I had decaying leaves in the tote already, and a filter in the pump. Surely it would work out! (For those who do not know, ammonia is a product of decaying matter, and is highly toxic to various organisms. Denitrifying bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite – also toxic, and then to nitrate – less toxic). Just in case though, I would throw in some extra dead leaves and wait another week. The time line becomes even more blurred here. Did I buy the freshwater test kit then? Or did I wait until I first got my shrimp?
I recall being excited to find an aquatics shop in London when I was visiting. We made a quick stop. I asked for 3 Amano shrimp, a marimo moss ball, water wisteria, some pellet fish food in case there wasn’t anything to eat for the shrimp, as I didn’t have any algal issues. I was very tempted to get a few guppies, as I recalled them to be easy to take care of based on a few conversations I had had with a friend, but I decided to take it slow.
I brought the shrimp home, added a mesh beg to my pump to block the inflow of water, and I slowly released them into the tank, thinking that any beneficial bacteria that road along in the water might help. Over the next few days, the shrimp chomped away at the debris building up on the moss ball, and hid under various 3D printed benchys (Fig. 5) scattered throughout the water. All was good (Fig. 6).
Figure 5. Example of a Benchy – The jolly 3D printing tortune test. Did you know that benchys are top heavy? All of them flipped in the water. The shrimp enjoyed hiding underneath them until duckweed and other aquatic plants got introduced.Figure 6. Amano hanging out on an upside down benchy next to some floating plants.
I instantly fell in love with the little shrimp clomping around, and decided perhaps I could get a few more. After all, amanos were nearly clear in colour, and I could never find them in the tub. I went and visited a shop I had originally wanted to go to (they were closed for unknown reasons), and explained my situation. They confirmed that I wasn’t really planning on breeding, so amanos, plus whatever fun coloured shrimp I wanted would probably work. This time I ended up with 3 amanos, 3 painted fire reds (neocaridina), and 3 guppies.The red shrimp were on sale, so that made the decision fairly easy for me. The guppies were selected at a ratio of 2:1 female to male, to distribute the male attention between the fish.
This is around the time when things started going wrong. The new shrimp seemed to be fine, but the old ones were listless and would curl up at the bottom of the tub. That was odd. I started doing 30% water changes each day, despite the lugging back and forth. I was testing the water parameters at this time, and saw a clear increase in…nitrite. This happened during a particularly busy time, and I let it run on for far too long. Two shrimp had passed away by the time I did my research on how to address the problems I was seeing. I purchased SeaChem Prime, Stability, and API’s QuickStart after trying to figure out which PetSmarts had both Prime and Stability. I later found out cheaper ways to access these products, but in the meantime, I was following instructions for dosing each day, while doing water changes. Things seemed to be improving other than the loss of 2 of the original shrimp. I chalked it up to the failure to acclimate.
Intermission: A Rescue Mission
Things were going well, so I finally decided it was time to rescue some of the lake minnows in the garage. I kept them separately in another tub for a couple of weeks before adding them into the large tote (Fig. 7).
Figure 7. Quarantine tub! The golden pothos is likely doing most of the work keeping the water clean.
Act III: Upgrading the Living Wall
The only issue I was having now, was the plant wall itself. With all the time I spent worrying about the living critters in the tote, I had neglected to figure out a solution for adjusting the wall so that it would stand up straight. I had to check on it daily to make sure it was stable, and was knocking around all sorts of things in the tub to do so. Now that things were stable-ish, it was time to upgrade. I had been regularly keeping an eye on aquariums for sale, both from major online retailers and second hand. The prices of a new aquarium were eye watering.
While searching for a reasonably priced aquarium, I also purchased an air pump and sponge filters. I had a feeling the fabric in the frame likely wasn’t doing as much filtration and supporting denitrifying bacteria like I had expected. This way I would have some additional oxygenation and an extra place for bacteria to grow, just in case the filter in the pump wasn’t doing the trick. I also added an additional piece of filter media into my water circulation pump to provide a far denser spongey material and prevent sucking up any shrimp.
Some weeks later… I got it! An aquarium! With a stand! (Did you know how expensive new aquarium stands are? I was looking at tool shelves as an alternative). It was a whopping 72 gallons. Since it was a second hand purchase, bringing it home was its own adventure. It was also immediately determined that it was far too big and would hold far too much water for any of us to feel comfortable with it on the second floor where I had the current setup. Rip my office living wall.
I set it up dry, gave the interior a good wipe down, and took a look at the top of the tank. Yep, as I expected, I would need to elevate the plant wall ABOVE the tank. As it turns out, all tanks with dimensions greater than 48 inches all come with a supporting brace across the top of the tank, presumably to relieve pressure on the glass outwards somehow. I had originally been planning on a support frame anyways, but this meant building a pretty high one, with significant pressure downwards on the glass.
I built the frame (Fig. 8). I’ll bypass the complications here, but it turns out there are multiple brand options when it comes to PVC pipe connectors that inset at different depths. I purchased some weight diffusing egg-crate. I boiled some gravel leftover from a backyard project and weighed it down. I wedged the frame support under the brace and onto the egg crate. I added water. I also purchased some Eco-Complete to weigh it down when it went on sale. There was a questionable trip that involved the back of a warehouse for that one.
Figure 8. Somewhat of a preview. Bits and bobs leftover from the frame building. It took two iterations to get the light on safely. The tank is a mess of random things. Fear not! I took the java fern out eventually.
I let it sit for a while, then transferred all the fish and shrimp over.
The End: Grand Plans
I had grand dreams of building an urban scape filled with miscellaneous ceramic houses from the thrift shops and letting them overgrow with moss, and a mesh “highway” that the shrimp could use to cross the tank, with a giant mountain on the other end. I knew it would take some time to find all the pieces if I wasn’t going to get anything new, or make the parts myself.
The End?
Everything worked like a dream. My shrimp were happily picking away at the substrate and the walls. My fish were swimming around and constantly looking for food. There were little algal growths happening, copepods were showing up, and my fish were starting to get white specks on their bodies.
Wait.
…my fish were starting to get white specks on their bodies???
The Next Adventure
Wherein several tank diseases rip through the aquarium, I acquire multiple tank syndrome, I find several other vendors, the plants start to settle in on the wall, my “budget” plant wall defies the budget, the fungas gnats return, the baby shrimp make their appearance, and I find a local aquatic plant dealer.
I recently was notified by a friend that an interesting article had dropped. Coffee and volcanoes! How exciting is that? I cracked open the article and was initially excited, then increasingly dismayed. Here is the article: Study: Why a spritz of water before grinding coffee yields less waste, tastier espresso. I found very little to be excited about on the first read through, and felt some internal panic welling up. This was for sure going to lead to some poorly thought out, widely spread content. Here is the paper for reference: Moisture-controlled triboelectrification during coffee grinding. All “quotes” are from the paper.
Background
For the past few years that I have been involved with grinding coffee at home and brewing specialty coffee while on a low budget. I have heard that adding in a few drops of water will reduce some of the static electricity in the process whereby the finer coffee grounds stick to the burrs and internals of the grinder. Personally I have never actually tried this, as I find the bits sticking to the surface to be quite useful in removing fines from my overall grind. I’ve just tapped off the fines afterwards and run a finger to dislodge the remainder in the grind receptacle. Seeing the article title, I thought, perhaps someone has finally quantified what the effective static reduction is like!
Seeing also the note about a volcanologist involved in the work, I was hopeful that the analogies would prove meaningful. I read through the article as it meandered along in some of the past work from the lab and found that they had identified two general factors contributing to the charged particles. The article does a reasonable job summarizing the paper, in that the team tested a number of variables and collected a slew of data. This part was surprising. The paper was written such that a regular audience could parse the work and the writers at Ars Technica could summarize each segment. I then took a look at the paper.
Matter
The highlights on the site are fairly straightforward, but the print version is confusing. The paper opens up with what is presumably a visual abstract with some key words overlain an image of some ground coffee on some unidentified mechanism. There is a brief background on the sources of charge (fracture and friction), with reference to some industrial interest in further studies on surprise charge. The authors claim to address three things: coffee parameters affect charge, demonstrating most of the charge is from the fracturing process, and charge is also dependent on moisture content. The introduction ends off with
“In the context of both understanding the fundamentals of triboelectrification and bolstering our efforts toward brewing more reproducible and sustainable coffee, this article offers strategies to control the charging of coffee particles and posits opportunities therefrom.”
The Results and Discussion section broke down those three aspects as follows
Charge parameters. They demonstrate that beans are charged via contact with typical coffee setup materials. It is unclear why they use the Starbucks Blonde Roast (blend) here. They then claim that coffee must be ground, typically to grain size of 100 nm to 2 mm. I was unable to find their reference here, as I usually grind coarser for a French press. Perhaps it is a reference to espresso grinds only. They skip ahead to state that finer grind sizes resulted in aggregates held together by electrostatic forces. They ground 1 g at a time and found both the net charge, and the charge distribution.
On origin. They used several Mexican coffees with different roasters and roast levels and found three different net polarities, “But those coffees were roasted by different roasters to different colors, and the data suggest, perhaps unsurprisingly, that origin alone does not dictate the polarity of charge.” I can confirm, this is unsurprising and the point on origin is not meaningful as one farm produces differently than the next, even if they are immediate neighbours.
They repeated this for 30 coffees and found a weak relationship between Agtron value (roast level) and charge. Instead, they pinpointed the 2% moisture content as the possible culprit (R-squared = 0.41). This runs counter to volcanic ash and an interesting point! It also indicates that they were able to measure moisture content of these coffees.
Two suggestions were provided. First, dark roast tends to be more brittle, and more associated with negative charge. The second, is that water content plays a role.
The distribution of negative particles is skewed towards fines and “boulders”. I did not get the same interpretation from the selected figures in the paper. In one of the images, the negative charge has a greater peak in the larger grain size range, but in the other, the two peaks are quite similar. An allusion to ion scavenging is made here. To that note, I wonder what their target grind size was as they later explain different roasts resulted in different size distributions. However, I didn’t see a distribution for neutral grains.
Roast parameters on charge.
Moisture. They roasted a 12% moisture green bean to a variety of different final products. They repeated for a 9% moisture green bean and found that the roast parameters were more important than the initial product moisture content for overall charge to mass ratio. The final moisture of the roasts fell between 1 – 3%.
Grind size. They used a different set of coffees from the moisture test, showing two coffees with net positive/negative charge and found that finer grinds correlated to higher charges. They also did a test using the same grind size across 13 coffees and showed darker roasts typically resulted in smaller mean diameter and more negative charge. “Figure 4C offers one explanation as to why darker coffees may yield slower espresso shots for the same brew parameters. It may not only be the increased volatile content but also the reduced bed permeability.” That is, lower grain size from the same grind is pulling slower shots. Note that your barista should be aware of the properties of their coffee beans that day, and should have each roast dialed in for the day. Because of the grind size difference with the roast levels, they repeated the experiment such that the same size distributions were had for each roast. They still found that negative charges correlated more strongly with darker roasts
Granular mechanisms. This targets the question of, how does the grind mechanism contribute to electrification? The authors pre-ground the coffee and then put it back through to evaluate the effects of frictional charging from grind interactions and coffee/grinder contact. There was about a 90% reduction in charge after testing on seven coffees by passing through a larger grind setting. Presumably they neutralized the coffee grounds prior to regrinding.
Addition of water. “Anecdotally, baristas have observed that the incorporation of small amounts of liquid water onto the whole-bean coffee prior to grinding results in seemingly reduced charging. In our hands, it also resulted in near-zero grounds being retained by the grinder, an observation that has implications for reducing waste and increasing quality of beverages. Perhaps we will revisit this in a future study, but for now, we are more interested in whether the addition of water neutralizes the effects of fracto- and triboelectrification or modulates particle aggregation via capillary forces.”
They found that humidity affected the charge once relative humidity was greater than 60%.
For seven coffees, they progressively added more water. Increase in water addition took place between 25 – 40% RH. They found that water content of 20 ul/g resulted in close to 0 net charge on the grounds and suggested either a cooling effect, or rapid ion transfer.
They also tested this with saline solutions to evaluate the effect of ion transfer. They found that the results were similar, so electron transfer in the dry case is more likely the cause of charging.
Here I find my major issue with the article. “To deduce whether the coffee particles were forming neutral aggregates”. This comes rather out of left field, perhaps they meant to create a new section? It seems that they were trying to answer what the net 0 charge consisted of, but never quite managed to say so.If this plays a significant role with volcanic ash, I feel that it would have helped the reader had they included more content in the Introduction. They found that the size distribution was improved with the addition of water, and found mostly neutral components in comparison to the “dry, field” grind result. The caption does not clarify what “field” and “no field” refer to, likely the method in which they sorted the bins. Water also reduces clumping.
Then they brewed some espresso using parameters that were unlike any of their prior parameters. 18.0 g dry mass coffee was used to produce 45.0 g liquid coffee extract, ground at setting 1.0, tamped at 196 N, and brewed using 94°C water, kept at 7 bar static water pressure with a 2-s pre-infusion. They found that without added water (unclear how much), the shot took less time and had a slightly lower TDS (total dissolved solids). The first drops enter the cup at the same time (~10s). They then fit a sigmoidal function to a hypothetical situation where the flow will achieve a constant and then looked at the flow rate for 3 samples of wet vs dry ground. “In other words, this is conclusive [bolding by me] evidence to suggest that dry-ground coffee is producing a bed with markedly more porous pathways.” They note that lower pH corresponds with higher S (more acidic coffee is less charged). They speculate on the role of internal moisture prior to roast.
That’s a lot! They went on to note that they made some assumptions about the burrs (in this case, their contribution is fixed, perhaps this is why they didn’t use other machines) and relate the Seebeck coefficient to the amount of charge from fracturing. They state that “Agtron number is proportional to the electronic band gap, both of which are reduced with darker roasts.” Without reference, so I will have to take their word for it. They related this to the Seebeck coefficient and oxidized organic molecules having low-laying orbitals. This seems to be a pretty big addition to the general knowledge of organic molecules, so I am surprised they did not highlight this more in the Introduction.
“Furthermore, light, medium, and dark coffees and their roast profiles can feature markedly different charging regimes, even for coffees with the same Agtron values. This highlights that modern roasting paradigms are highly artisanal and pose fundamental challenges for using commercially sourced coffee in academic settings.”
Alright. This feels like pandering.
“One could imagine the development of in-ground mineralization to make designer brewing water in situ without the risk of damaging boilers in espresso settings.”
I really don’t know where they were going here. Are they suggesting adding/removing heaps of salt and hardness to accommodate for water in advance and pulling shots with distilled? This is an interesting point I wish they elaborated upon.
Methods
I’ll highlight some interesting aspects I saw in the Methods section.
A pipette was used to introduce water onto whole-bean coffee, and the coffee was shaken in a sealed container to ensure homogeneous distribution.
Whole-bean coffee was stored in H2O-impermeable vacuum bags and kept at −20°C. The coffee was allowed to equilibrate to room temperature in the vacuum bag before grinding
I am curious to see how long the coffee was shaken to “ensure homogeneous distribution”. I also see that they didn’t comment on the effects of freezing the coffee prior to use, as freezing beans is quite controversial amongst coffee enthusiasts.
Notably, they did not provide a method to clean the grinder in between experiments, nor is there data indicating the mass loss during the process.
Commentary
“Many commercial coffee roasters treat their roast profiles as proprietary, and it is impossible to back calculate the precise profile from examination of only the roasted whole beans. There is academic value in standardizing roast profiles across the industry, thereby allowing for direct comparisons between coffees. But we are not advocating for this on the industrial scale, as that would sterilize an artisanal aspect of the industry. Instead, we developed our own profiles with the aim of isolating roast through the development of systematically “darker” coffees.”
This segment indicates that the authors care about the artistry of specialty coffee. Unfortunately, this theme runs through much of the paper and I found it to strongly influence how the paper was written. I then wonder, who was this paper written for?
As a consumer and coffee enthusiast, I am left with the following thoughts and questions
Lack of testing. Only ONE grinder was used during this test. I think they selected a sensible one if they were only going to use one, it’s reasonably accessible to different shops and the settings they used were straightforward. I do imagine perhaps there were complications justifying it on a budget (industry grinders are astoundingly expensive if there was no specific target goal for the research that served direct benefits). This is evident in James Hoffman’s video where he discusses the paper and interview with one of the authors, where he ends with a suggestion that at home brewers should fill in the gap.
Not understanding the difference between specialty crops and variability between farms that could be adjacent to each other. Given how many external individuals were involved in the work, this should have been caught early on.
Use of the standard dark/light roast ratings via Agtron was useful, but I wonder if there was the opportunity to develop a new standard for roast levels here. Perhaps based on water content before and after roasting?
Freezing? This changes how the coffee works. Why did they freeze things? Why did they not evaluate the effect of “resting” coffee? How fresh were the roasts? Why didn’t they roast more of their own sample? Why choose to use a number of different roasts? Was it just a PR stunt? Clearly they had collaborators, going back to the first thought, why not borrow a few grinders for controls?
I think there is the possibility that this work can be really extended and become useful for your average hobbyist. For example, nailing down the variable effect on extraction or charge scaled to average grind diameter and how variable the results can be if you have an even vs uneven grind
Who is this paper actually written for? The authors refer to the “artisanal process” a fair amount, and note some complications in terms of getting roast profiles. They also do not use grinders across the hobbyist market, nor test out burrs made of different materials (which should have a notable effect).
My thoughts as someone who attempts to write and share science via papers:
Absolute statements. The authors make a number of absolute statements that are not understood to be true, even by a regular audience. One such example is, “All coffee is ground”. Coffee beans are typically harvested, dried, then roasted to produce what the consumer sees as “coffee beans”. These can then be further processed by grinding to make a standard “coffee” drink, but can also be coated in chocolate, or have some of the volatiles extracted via CO2.
Lack of structured testing. Opportunistic testing makes sense when one is in the field, or has limited time/funding/equipment. The authors picked and chose one strand from each of the experiments to continue on with the next step, resulting in very little data. Perhaps there were limited controls on the experiment that they do not address.
Magical proposals. I am still baffled as to where the idea of “aggregates” comes from. This might be a matter of coming from a very different field, but if it is as intuitive as it seems, then it is surprising it wasn’t proposed earlier in discussion of volcanic ash. The role of neutral aggregates is not elaborated upon in terms of some of the other tests they did. Perhaps this lies somewhere in the realm of volcano science? The concept of aggregates was not surprising in and of itself, but it is unclear what fraction of aggregates were formed, and how they affected the final production when the aggregate ratio decreased. It’s worth noting here that I don’t possess an espresso grinder and perhaps all the “fines” that I’m thinking of are actually the espresso grind size, and the goal was to limit the loss of coffee. Which is a great target! Coffee prices are going up and grams can add up. That said, they could have been clearer in the introduction when mentioning potential industry impacts that this was one of their intentions.
Awareness. I think this article was actually great in terms of awareness for how one changes one parameter at a time when trying to perfect a coffee brew. The authors are potentially well on their way to changing how the standard espresso at a coffee shop is pulled, but given the sterilization of specialized coffee in recent years, perhaps their target was truly the at home tinkerer.
The only profound thing this article has demonstrated is how easy it is to blow up on the internet if you have the right connections or work on a topic that touches the lives of many. Does anyone remember how science indicated red wine was both good and bad for your health?
Sketchy Science Segment
As an additional Sketchy Science segment, here is my daily brew using a size 2 V60. This uses ~25 g of coffee (pure speculation on my part, it’s been a while since I checked) and ~380 mL of water. I use straight tap water with ~35 mg/L sodium in it with a CaCO3 hardness of 149 mg/L. I couldn’t find the pH on a public site, but a sample test with the Master Freshwater API Test kit indicates I have a water pH of ~7.4 straight from the tap. I have two kettles, one electronic to boil quickly, and one gooseneck for a controlled pour.
Boil 600 mL of water in an electric kettle to 100 deg C.
Grind coffee to around ~2 mm while heating water in kettle.
Transfer 400 mL water into a stovetop gooseneck kettle (this drops the temperature and bypasses the slow and inefficient heating on the stove). This typically drops my temperature to around 85 C.
Pre-wet filter so it sticks to the plastic V60 (I used to use a ceramic, but had too much heat loss from it). Dump excess water.
Pour ground coffee into the center of the wet filter, tap sides to even out the coffee bed. (At this stage, I find it most useful for fines to get stuck on the side of my grinder so very little ends up in my pour). Poke a shallow indent in the middle of the coffee bed
Gently pour from the gooseneck into the indent, and let the water slowly flow over, covering the coffee bed. This takes around 30 – 50 mL of water. Relatively fresh coffee should now “bloom” and release CO2 during this process. The goal is to get all of the grounds somewhat damp for the actual pour. Let sit for around 30 s.
Pour in a circular motion until you reach just over the half way mark of the size 2 filter. Give a gentle swirl in a clockwise motion to settle the agitated grounds so they funnel along the V60 grooves. Swirling counter to the groove direction will result in a lumpy bed.
While the water is still in motion, top off the water in a circular motion to ¾ up the filter. Let drain. This uses up around 200 mL
Walk away and futz around for a minute
Come back and do a second pour of around 125 – 150 mL. No swirling required. Let drain
Walk away and pack your bag for work
Pour ~100 mL. The water should be fairly slow to pass through now as the filter is getting clogged. Wait until you can see the sludge at the top and the filter is very slow to drip.
Optionally top off with the now ~40 – 50 deg C water and let drain. I heard in passing somewhere that the last little bit is actually the sweetest aspect. I can’t say I disagree when I decant out coffee earlier during the process.
Swirl the carafe gently to mix, then transfer into your preferred drinking vessel. Put a small amount aside in hopes that someone else will drink and appreciate your work.
Notes: I wanted to compare my water parameters to Third Wave Water, but I was unable find the information easily on their site. My guess is that it’s buried in a video somewhere. Since I first heard of their inception, they seem to have produced a number of water adjusters for multiple types of brews… I did find SCA water standards which their main product is inspired by and found Calcium Hardness 50 – 140 ppm, Alkalinity 40 – 70 ppm, pH 6 – 8 (huge range of acceptable pH, target of 7.0). My water hardness seems quite a bit higher than the standard, which I can certainly taste and experience when drinking water from the tap. https://sca.coffee/heritage-coffee-standards
Disclaimers: I have followed James Hoffman on YouTube for years, and I am really not a fan of his “science” work. I mostly appreciate what a big fan of coffee he is and usually only watch content when I am interested in the idea (clickbait titles). I typically end up disappointed when I see a basic Excel spreadsheet with no error bars or only one test, then avoid watching his content for several weeks in a row. I found his content on how to do coffee cuppings very interesting though, do check that out! I am told that the content is usually quite high quality in terms of robustness, so I must be lucking out. The commentary on AeroPress was quite interesting RE: industry insights however, and it’s still on my list of reading content to check out his Coffee Atlas. As always, check your sources folks. Clearly there is a lack of research in the realm of coffee, perhaps it’s time other scientists start branching out to bring in related ideas.
Conclusions
Here are some questions I would love answered, or perhaps answers are out there and I haven’t stumbled upon them yet.
Why do we break the crust during cupping? What is the actual goal here?
What is the perfect number of swirls and swirl motion to get a flat bed during a pourover if we consider grain size distribution, water temperature, and the standard V60 size 2 with Hario filters after the initial bloom?
Is there a perfect way to age a Coffee Sock? Surely the fabric and weave alter over time.
What is the most efficient way of cleaning a French Press without dumping grounds into the sink and flooding the garbage with water?
What’s up with Third Wave Water? What kind of testing did they participate in to develop their water conditioners?
We never did find out if the espresso was tastier at the end of the paper. Is it time to quantify taste preference in coffee for the average person vs the elitists?